Structure and process as design…

I now realise what I am interested in is rapid production and equally natural materials. It may seem regressive but it is essential to explore material and what opportunities are inherinet in the material properties to allow for customization.  Natural materials are alive, mellow, wear and with them we form emotional connections.  The Fashion Footwear industry is a very mature market where  structures have evolved from specific industrial machines and these structures drive the designs.

If we move to a designs informed purely by process and we use natural materials what are we left with?  Here are some initial explorations of structure.  The last I chose from Springline followed the natural curve of the foot.

tapped top view last from Springline

last on cork heel

I wanted to wrap the footbead/insole around the arch to make it more pleasurable. I found every time I made a board insole it seemed to start to dictate the structure. Insole, heel and upper this is what Marloes spoke of as what she aims to do is to not think of structure in this way. So I started working with leather insoles.  Heather kept directing further research and suggested looking at Ferragamo. Mark suggested looking at Openka constructions.

Opanke sole Ferragamo

initial thinking on parts

wish it could be this direct

sole wraps around cork heel acting as harness

opanke insole and felt sock

Diamer Felt 5mm insole - holes punched to allow for spreading of material to mold into foot


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